PD and Binoculars

There are so many solid binocular options out there, and comparison guides for all budgets. I don’t have the time or energy to replicate those. Instead, some advice–if you are in the market for binoculars—maybe you’ve just started birding, or maybe you’re looking to upgrade—some time-tested rules apply, with a few special twists for people with Parkinson’s:

Buy the best binoculars you can afford.  This maxim of birding holds true no matter what your health status. But in particular if you have PD there’s no time like the present to improve your optics!  Replacing your old binoculars with ones that have sharper, brighter images will make birding more pleasurable in a wider variety of weather and lighting conditions, and keeping the disease in mind can help you make choices to enhance the experience.

Trade magnification for field of view and forgiveness of image. The two magic numbers in binoculars (e.g., 7×35) refer, respectively, to the magnification (power) and the size of the objective (light-gathering) lens in millimeters.  Objective lenses being equal, a lower magnification means you don’t seem to be quite as close to the bird, but as a tradeoff the image is generally brighter, and the greater field of view you may also gain is more forgiving of shakiness and helps keep an active bird in view.

If you wear eyeglasses, pay attention to “exit pupil” and “eye relief.” Even the sharpest-visioned of us may succumb to presbyopia. Eye relief is the maximum distance your eye can be from the eyepiece lens and still see the whole image–and if you wear glasses, you want that distance to be as long as possible. Exit pupil is the measurement of the width of the image coming through the eyepiece and, again, bigger is generally better.

Consider the kind of birding (and other wildlife observation) you like to do. If (in addition to birds of course) you also want to study butterflies and dragonflies, you should pay attention to close-focus distances (shorter is better). Do you need waterproof bins?  Will you be birding in very humid environments where fogging might become an issue?

Most importantly, the best bins are those that bring you happiness and that you will actually use. Consider the weight and feel of the binoculars in your hands–do they feel natural and comfortable?  With PD it is easy to become fatigued; will your bins become too tiring to hold?  Some people actually prefer heavier binoculars, since their mass serves as an inertial damper to counteract shaking and tremor.  Others prefer smaller, lighter bins that easily slip into a bag and go everywhere. With so many decisions, the choice of binoculars comes down ultimately to personal preferences.

Shaky Hands Embrace Monopods

I am attached to my binoculars.  When I found out I had PD, I didn’t want new bins, I wanted to find a way to continue to use the old familiar binoculars that have served me well.  But my hands were shaky– (shocking, right!?)–and it was getting harder and harder to use my bins without some kind of added stabilization.

No matter how good your binoculars are, tremors and shaking make these most essential birding tools frustrating at best and useless at worst.  Since an investment in optics is one many of us have already made, it makes sense, at least early on, to look for an additive, not substitutive, solution to steadying the view.

Enter the monopod.  More stable than shaky hands, lighter and less bulky than a tripod, and able to do double-duty (bonus!) as a walking stick, a monopod was the right equipment to match this stage of my PD progression. 

Monopods were created for photographers and the setup for birders is trivial: they have standard photo mounting screws to which you affix a generic clamp or possibly one bespoke for your particular brand/model of binoculars. Some binoculars even have a mounting screw (usually up front of the bridge, sometimes covered by a plastic cap) that allows them to be solidly attached to a bracket connected to the monopod’s head.  I have found in all but the windiest of weather conditions that I don’t even need to clip the bins onto the pod, it’s enough simply to rest them atop the platform, and then to lean on the whole apparatus. (Regardless of whether I clip the bins in or not, I keep their strap around my neck just in case.)

As with any piece of photography-oriented equipment, the range of options is huge and daunting. One challenge for me was in finding a monopod that was tall enough to reach my eye level (and preferably to exceed it for tilting back and looking at birds above the horizontal). Since monopods have mainly been built to photographers’ specs, extra inches were expected to be provided by a mounting head and the camera body itself, and as a result very few were designed to be tall enough for my 6’ 2” frame. With my eye level at about 68”, it took a good amount of searching to find the very few monopods out there that exceeded 60” in height. Knowing that working to maintain good posture is extremely important for those with PD, I sought the tallest monopod I could find.

The author’s monopod in action. Note the bins are just resting on the pod, making it easy to grab and scan for birds, then return them to the stability of the monopod for more careful study.

Beyond height, other considerations were weight and material (the two directly related, as in carbon fiber), number of segments (i.e., how compactly it can collapse), and type of joints (flip latches, twist latches).  After a lot of research online, my wife and I found ourselves looking at a small set of extra-long  Manfrotto and Benro ‘pods. We settled on the Benro MAD49A. This pod has an impressive 72” maximum height and folds down to about 21”. The latter is important not just for travel, but also because I frequently find myself sitting on a bench or even in a parked car and desiring some assistance with stabilization.  As to the former, those extra inches of height, when fully extended, let me scan into the treetops–depending of course on how far I am from them. With five segments of aluminum/magnesium tubing it’s certainly not the lightest pod one can buy (weighing in at almost two pounds) but it feels exceptionally sturdy, and it seems to me the mass of the monopod helps serve as a damper to the antagonizing small shaking movements in my hands.  The flip-locks make it easy to open, close, and adjust the extension of the monopod, even for noncompliant fingers. With this rig, my binocular clamp remains constantly screwed onto the monopod, but I attach the binoculars only when necessary (i.e., in gusty winds).

So far, so good…